WATERFALL SCOZZESE

First climb:  G.C. Grassi – G. Montrucchio, 8th  December 1981

Elevation gain:  120 m

Difficulty:  TD

Exposure:  South

Altitude:  abt.1900 m

Climbing time:  2 – 3 hrs

ACCESS:  Once you have reached Pian della Mussa, cross the long plateau (2,5 km) to get near to Rifugio Città di Cirié.  Reach, at the opposite side of the plateau, Alpe Rocca Venoni (1845 m) from which Canale delle Capre begins.  2 hrs walk from Balme.

ROUTE:  Climb the first cliff through several succeeding swellings (75° – 80°) until you reach a more sloping path of minimum width, which brings you to the base of a second little gully (75°).  Through a sloping gully you will reach, to the right, good ledges where to rest (50 m).  Cross again the gully and climb directly the beautiful iced cliff (70° – 75°).  Continue the climb to the left, along a very thin, but not so steep iced shaft in order to reach the resting site against the rocks to the left (50 m).  To the right of the resting site, you will face the last iced part of the route.  Then, through snow and very steep grassy slopes you will reach the exit meadows.

DESCENT:  Climb the ridge until you find a horizontal ledge which will bring you back to Canale delle Capre.  30’ walk.

NOTE:   This waterfall is very different from the close by Blue Waterfall, at the entrance of  Canale delle Capre.  Its ice is of a dirty gray color, sign of  brittle and inconsistent ice.  Nevertheless, with the winter very low temperature, the waterfall undergoes a complete metamorphosis and becomes as blue as the sky.  At this moment it is very similar to the Lost Post waterfall at Creag Meahgaidh in Scotland.

CASCATA AZZURRA

First climb:  R. Monelli – G.C. Grassi, 7th  March 1980

Elevation gain:  60 m

Difficulty:  D+ at the center

Exposure:  North

Altitude:  abt. 2000 m

Climbing time:  1-2 hrs

ACCESS:  Cross Pian della Mussa to the Canale delle Capre entrance.  Proceed in the gully overtaking the Scottish Waterfall on its right side.  In about 10’ walk you will reach the  base of  the Blue Waterfall which is on the left orographic side of the gully.  2 ½  hrs. from Balme.

ROUTE:  Start climbing at the center of the waterfall until you reach a vertical wall. Cross to the right so as to overtake a series of swellings (80°), then cross from left to the center of the waterfall to go beyond a gully (75°).  Having reached a sloping area, you will find a marked mound after which you will cross to the left so as to stop and rest on the rocky edge.  Reach again the not steep gully (45°, which may be snow-clad due to heavy snowfalls) and, after abt. 60 m, you will exit on rubble spurs.

DESCENT:  Downclimbing to the east, turn in the direction of Rifugio Gastaldi supply cableway.  Find a gully with the frozen bed, which will lead you to Canale delle Capre, just a bit lower than the waterfall just, climbed.  30’ walk.

NOTE:  You may climb the waterfall more or less everywhere, but it is suggested to climb the more continuous central part of it.

WATERFALL ELEMENTI CONTRASTANTI

First climb:  E. Cavallo – G.C. Grassi, 18th  March 1981

Elevation gain:  100 m

Difficulty:  TD-

Exposure:  North-East

Altitude:  abt.1950 m

Climbing time:  2 hrs

ACCESS:  Once you have reached Pian della Mussa, cross the long plateau (2,5 km) to get near to Rifugio Città di Cirié.  You will reach the Waterfall, the first one of the rocky barrier to the right of Canale delle Capre, through Vallone delle Lance.  2 hrs from Balme.

ROUTE:  Climb directly the first waterfall wall (70°-85°) then diagonally to the right along a steeper slope on the right side of the central swellings. Through an easy slope you will climb to reach the rocks on the right (50 m) where you may rest.  Go back to the iced gully, up to a series of swellings, which may be directly climbed toward the right.  You will then overcome, on the right side, the final bulge, short and very steep (90°), coming out to the waterfall summit.

DESCENT:  Reach on the left a grassy bump and cross diagonally grassy slopes at first and then a nice ledge which, by horizontally cutting the rocky wall, will bring you to Canale delle Capre.  You will then reach Pian della Mussa through the gully.  30’ walk.

NOTE:  The Waterfall of Conflicting Elements is, in the end, more difficult than one may think just by observing it from below.  The natural environment is very beautiful dominated, as it is, by the imposing south wall of Ciamarella.

WATERFALL SINUOSA

First climb:  A. Balmamion – P.L. Perona, winter 1980

Elevation gain:  140 m

Difficulty:  D+

Exposure:  North-East

Altitude:  abt. 1950 m

Climbing time:  1,30-2 hrs

ACCESS:  It is on the right of the Waterfall of  Conflicting Elements, recessed in the second gully, that cuts the rocky barrier on the right of Canale delle Capre.  2 hrs from Balme.

ROUTE:  Climb the first iced slope by overtaking the cliff in the center (70°-75°) of the waterfall.  Follow the gully (easy) and rest against the rocks to the left (50 m).  Climb to the base of a swelling which may be outflanked on the right side or overtaken directly (75°).  A series of iced  bulges, which may be climbed at the center, allows you to reach again the rocks to the left (50 m – 164 ft).  Climb another 20 m making a midway stop on the left side.  Reach the base of the final route and climb it at the center, to the left of a wide and characteristic cave (80°).  Reach the summit through the slope (60 m).

DESCENT:  Reach on the left a grassy bump and cross diagonally grassy slopes at first and then a nice ledge which, by horizontally cutting the rocky wall, will bring you to Canale delle Capre.  You will then reach Pian della Mussa through the gully.  30’ walk.

NOTE:  This is, nowadays, a popular and one of the most classic waterfalls of the region.  Usually it is possible to climb it from mid November to April.   There is not great risk of avalanches, even in case of heavy snowfall.  Skis are useful for the approach.

PLS NOTE:  In January 1984, B. Pica Garino and P.L. Perona climbed this waterfall through a new and very interesting little iced-clad gully located between the Wiggly Waterfall and the Gias della Buffa Waterfall.  In case of heavy snowfall, this iced gully is snow-clad.

LEFT WATERFALL GIAS DELLA BUFFA

First climb:  G.C. Grassi –G. Montrucchio, 31^st January 1981

Elevation gain:  100 m

Difficulty:  D+

Exposure:  North

Altitude:  abt.2000 m

Climbing time:  2 hrs

ACCESS:  Starting from Rifugio Città di Ciriè, walk through the gully leading to the Ciamarella South wall.  While walking you will see, on the left of the wall, the easy to reach waterfalls.  2 ½  hrs from Balme.

ROUTE:  Start climbing the waterfall in the center, just to the right of a surfacing rock, and proceed up some very steep swellings (70° – 80°) until you reach a sloping hollow (50 m).  Directly and just a bit to the left, overtaking little walls which end against the rocks, cross diagonally to the right, overtake a small snow-clad little gully and rest against the rocks (45 m).  You will overtake the last swellings on the right and, through rubbles, will reach the plateau.

DESCENT:  Cross to the right toward the Ciamarella south side, paying attention not to climb down too much.  You will meet a first marked gully and will keep crossing the plateau in order to reach a new gully, which will allow you to cross to the next valley toward the base of the Black Avalanche Waterfall.  1 hr walk.